Exhaust Valve Actuator WANTED... [Archive]

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Labratt

06-10-2008, 12:02 PM

Humpo

06-10-2008, 02:41 PM

when you get a full system you get a plug that shorts some of the wires together you should look into getting that plug or making one yourself.

Aussie1098s

06-10-2008, 03:55 PM

Hey Guys,

Anyone in OZ fitted a full system with the DP race ECU and still got their exhaust valve actuator? I want to try and grab a spare as I'm trying to mod mine to fool the ECU into thinking its still connected so I can fit a full Arrow system. Just dont want to get stranded if it doesnt work out. PM me if you have and we'll go from there.....

Mate do a search, I can't remember his name but there's a bloke here who mod his exh valve motor with a stopper, so that at start up it goes lock to lock, finds end to end, with no eng check light. All without the valve in the pipe and without the cables.

Labratt

06-12-2008, 05:25 AM

Aussie1098s

06-12-2008, 05:50 AM

Thanks guys,

I was going to crack mine open and see what makes it work. I've already ordered the blanking plug for the termi full system ECU as I wanted to see if it was just a cap or actually did something. Will let you know.

I miss read your original post, :dunno surely someone in WA would have fitted full termis to a 1098 and left with a exh valve motor?
BTW the cap does nothing other than dirt & dust control. Has no pins only silicone seal bungs.

Labratt

06-13-2008, 11:08 AM

Still looking mate. Thnaks for the heads up on the bungs. Will get them anyways.

Topolino

06-14-2008, 06:51 AM

when you get a full system you get a plug that shorts some of the wires together you should look into getting that plug or making one yourself.

Sorry to correct you, as I think it is important to stress the point that you should NEVER recommend shorting out a connection, unless you want to invite electrical problems on a bike, and ONLY in rare cases where you are using a jumper for a specific and tested reason. Relays and fuses are designed to take any electrical loads and surges. If you bypass that safety mechanism, you run the potential of an electrical fire or overheating cables plus needing a new loom.

The plug you refer to is purely a waterproof cover. It does not to my knowledge short the pins in the connector out, since with the full system, you are supplied with the DP race ECU, which does not look for the servo valve and hence will not throw up an error code. The plug supplied is purely to prevent moisture entering into the connector, where the removed servo valve cable would have been plugged in. You should also be supplied with a plug for the O2 Lambda sensor connection, since that is also removed, when you replace the stock system with the full Termignoni system.

desmodaddy

06-14-2008, 07:06 AM

Sorry to correct you, as I think it is important to stress the point that you should NEVER recommend shorting out a connection, unless you want to invite electrical problems on a bike, and ONLY in rare cases where you are using a jumper for a specific and tested reason. Relays and fuses are designed to take any electrical loads and surges. If you bypass that safety mechanism, you run the potential of an electrical fire or overheating cables plus needing a new loom.

The plug you refer to is purely a waterproof cover. It does not to my knowledge short the pins in the connector out, since with the full system, you are supplied with the DP race ECU, which does not look for the servo valve and hence will not throw up an error code. The plug supplied is purely to prevent moisture entering into the connector, where the removed servo valve cable would have been plugged in. You should also be supplied with a plug for the O2 Lambda sensor connection, since that is also removed, when you replace the stock system with the full Termignoni system. But he's replacing the stock for the full Arrow system, not the Termi (that maybe comes supplied with special features?). I'm really wondering if I need to change the stock ECU with either DP or Nemesis or are there other - less expensive - alternatives?). Desmo saludos to all of you from Belgium.

Labratt

06-14-2008, 09:10 AM

I'm got word from Dan Kyle that the slip on ECU should be ok with a full system if you have a custom map made using the PC3. The slip on ECUs are cheaper and come with the oxygen plug so its just a matter of fooling the actuator so you wont get any error codes and the bike will run sweet.

snorkelbat

06-16-2008, 08:59 AM

The exhaust valve device is a DC motor driven by an H Bridge controller in the dash, there is also a feedback potentiometer in the device so that the dash knows when it has reached the correct position.

It works in exactly the same way as any 'drive by wire' throttle system on many modern cars (and even a few bikes - ZX10)

If you remove it you will surely get a diagnostic error and if you make a fixed potentiometer voltage on the feedback you will also get one as the system is expecting this to move when the motor is driven. All closed loop systems such as this have a time error built into them, if the device takes longer to achieve the correct position than the software thinks is acceptable then it kicks up an error.

My suggestion is that you keep the device fitted to the loom and tuck it somewhere that it can work away on it's own, or fit an ECu that does not use it.

Note that even though it is driven and controlled by the dash, the core signal such as tps and rpm are ECU generated.

Mick.

Labratt

06-16-2008, 11:41 AM

Thanks for the tech info mick. I want to get a new pulley machine up that has the stops built in so it all looks factory rather than adding bolts or pieces of ally. These are great mods and show the injenuity of the guys here but when fitting a top line system I want everything to look like its meant to be there. Will let you know how I go.